We got an early start to climb six miles to the summit of Cadillac Mountain. This is the traditional road to run, hike, bicycle or drive up in order to get a 360 degree view of Acadia National Park. Unfortunately we only saw fog, but we had to do it to complete our trip which was 4,223 miles on my odometer. Luckily we were able to buy postcards to show us what we would be able to see on a clear day.
Then we rode to the bike shop to turn our bicycles in to be shipped home. As Carol's friend, Donna Ikenberry said, "You've just shipped away your identity." Not so fast. We were having lunch when a young couple approached us to ask if we had bicycled across the country. They had seen our bicycles at the bike shop and identified us by our grease stained yellow rain gear and bicycling shoes. We felt like celebrities as we answered their questions about our trip. They told us they have three months and are contemplating buying bicycles to make the same trip themselves. We wished them luck and exchanged addresses in case they have questions.
Our last day in Bar Harbor we toured Acadia National Park by bus and foot. We dipped our feet in the Atlantic, took photos of the coastal rocks and trees coming down to the Atlantic and even enjoyed watching a seal frolicking in the surf.
Our great adventure is behind us and maybe not too soon. Our tires are wearing thin and our hair is bushy. Our bicycling clothes are looking tired from daily use and many washings. Our bicycles have been well used and beat up through rain, mud, grit and gravel. And we are more than ready to return home to reconnect with the people whom we love and who have enthusiastically supported us along the way. But we are especially grateful for the moving memories of all the people along the way who started out as strangers and became our inspiring, supportive friends.
Sunday, August 3, 2008
Friday, August 1, 2008
Searsport, ME to Bar Harbor, ME 60 Miles
Carol and I were excited to know this was our day to ride into Bar Harbor, our goal since we started pedaling in Anacortes, WA on May 16th. The people we have met in Maine have treated us beautifully and given us fond memories. But, the Maine Coast has not been a supportive fan of bicyclists.
We started off today in fog, but the temperature was warm enough not to need any jackets. We experienced some slight drizzles early but nothing alarming, though the skies looked threatening. We did continue climbing up and down hills like we have for the past two days. About 30 miles into our ride we stopped to eat in Ellsworth. We found a park in front of the public library, but since the benches were wet, we sat under the porch steps in front of the library, where we met Cliff Skinner. He was spending the day with his children and noticed all our bicycling gear. We talked a while and told him about our journey. He was so impressed he pulled out his wallet and handed us a donation on the spot. This is so touching to me when people do this.
After our stop in Ellsworth we had only 28 miles left to arrive in Bar Harbor. The first 14 miles took us around a bay where it began to pour heavily. I began to feel discouraged at the narrow roads and the difficulty of seeing through fogged up glasses. But, after five miles the rain stopped and I saw glimpses of the beautiful ocean as trees opened onto meadows. I also passed an old cemetery where I was reminded, again, how fortunate I am to Be Here Now and be able to live my dream. I will be resting soon enough. I was able to continue in high spirits all the way into Trenton, where we stopped in the Bar Harbor information center. There we were met by an enthusiastic woman who couldn't wait to share her own cross country cycling adventures with us and encourage us on our way. We were only 14 miles from our goal and we were excited to continue.
As I said, the Maine Coast threw all it had at us. We never had a moment when we could say, "It's all downhill from here." The rain began again, and the hills kept on coming one after the other. The rain poured harder and as I was pushing uphill, I was watching the water flow down the hills in sheets. There was never any thought of stopping, there was nowhere to stop anyway, but I was questioning my sanity when we finally arrived at the entrance to Acadia State Park. where we did not stop for photos.
We finally arrived in the town of Bar Harbor where we found a dry spot under the gazebo on the town green with all the other tourists looking for refuge from the downpour. We found the First Baptist Church where we were met by Pastor Scott Records and his wife Joanne. They were so gracious when we stood in the doorway dripping all over everything. I literally poured water out of my gortex rain socks.
Pastor Scott and Joanne quickly helped us with our bicycles into the church basement, brought us dry towels and showed us where we could settle in. They were doing this in the midst of completing church duties, preparing for their own vacation getaway as well as preparing for house guests. They just kept asking, "what can we do for you?"
Carol and I still can barely believe we have arrived at our destination. We cleaned up, got warm and dry and went out to see Bah Habah and eat Lobstah. It has finally stopped raining.
We started off today in fog, but the temperature was warm enough not to need any jackets. We experienced some slight drizzles early but nothing alarming, though the skies looked threatening. We did continue climbing up and down hills like we have for the past two days. About 30 miles into our ride we stopped to eat in Ellsworth. We found a park in front of the public library, but since the benches were wet, we sat under the porch steps in front of the library, where we met Cliff Skinner. He was spending the day with his children and noticed all our bicycling gear. We talked a while and told him about our journey. He was so impressed he pulled out his wallet and handed us a donation on the spot. This is so touching to me when people do this.
After our stop in Ellsworth we had only 28 miles left to arrive in Bar Harbor. The first 14 miles took us around a bay where it began to pour heavily. I began to feel discouraged at the narrow roads and the difficulty of seeing through fogged up glasses. But, after five miles the rain stopped and I saw glimpses of the beautiful ocean as trees opened onto meadows. I also passed an old cemetery where I was reminded, again, how fortunate I am to Be Here Now and be able to live my dream. I will be resting soon enough. I was able to continue in high spirits all the way into Trenton, where we stopped in the Bar Harbor information center. There we were met by an enthusiastic woman who couldn't wait to share her own cross country cycling adventures with us and encourage us on our way. We were only 14 miles from our goal and we were excited to continue.
As I said, the Maine Coast threw all it had at us. We never had a moment when we could say, "It's all downhill from here." The rain began again, and the hills kept on coming one after the other. The rain poured harder and as I was pushing uphill, I was watching the water flow down the hills in sheets. There was never any thought of stopping, there was nowhere to stop anyway, but I was questioning my sanity when we finally arrived at the entrance to Acadia State Park. where we did not stop for photos.
We finally arrived in the town of Bar Harbor where we found a dry spot under the gazebo on the town green with all the other tourists looking for refuge from the downpour. We found the First Baptist Church where we were met by Pastor Scott Records and his wife Joanne. They were so gracious when we stood in the doorway dripping all over everything. I literally poured water out of my gortex rain socks.
Pastor Scott and Joanne quickly helped us with our bicycles into the church basement, brought us dry towels and showed us where we could settle in. They were doing this in the midst of completing church duties, preparing for their own vacation getaway as well as preparing for house guests. They just kept asking, "what can we do for you?"
Carol and I still can barely believe we have arrived at our destination. We cleaned up, got warm and dry and went out to see Bah Habah and eat Lobstah. It has finally stopped raining.
Thursday, July 31, 2008
Damariscotta, ME to Searsport, ME 55 Miles July 31
We are only 65 miles from our destination of Bar Harbor and feeling more excited and giddy each day. But, the adventure continues to the last. We stayed on Highway 1 today to avoid the worn, torn, hilly Highway 52 which our route suggested. We had gentler hills than the last two days, but more traffic than we are used to. Carol was especially unnerved when our nice wide shoulder completely disappeared, and the trucks kept coming. Being from LA, I am used to traffic, besides we did have forest on the side of the road as opposed to the cliffs of Highway 1 in California.
One especially beautiful town we passed through today was Camden. With its compact center and narrow streets it felt quite European. We had a picnic lunch on the lovely "Green". As we rode through and out of town we couldn't help noticing that the curbs lining the blacktop sidewalks and streets were actually made of granite. We have enjoyed seeing granite everywhere in New Hampshire and Maine. People use granite posts as decoration in their yards and gardens. Today we passed a business which carves granite memorial stones and they even had one that was shaped like a shiney black motorcycle.
We were able to see the beach in Lincolnville and celebrate the fact we have ridden "from sea to shining sea". Our last ten miles today were in light rain, but we still arrived in Searsport in good spirits. We were met by Pastor Stephen McCloud of the United Methodist Church. He and his fiance are both pastors and seminary students. But he took time out of his busy schedule to make sure we had everything we need. We were offered a shower in his home, and given a warm dry place to sleep upstairs in the sanctuary because it is the one part of the church that has carpeting. The only drawback is that the beautiful stained glass window facing the street is lit up at night from the inside. But, we are prepared to cope with anything. I try to pack items which will be used in more than one way and I could never take a trip without my bandanna. This keeps the sun off of my neck, can be soaked in water to keep me cool, can be used as a washcloth or a towel and will be used tonight to keep the light out of my eyes in the sanctuary of the United Methodist Church.
We are ready for our ride into Bar Harbor tomorrow.
One especially beautiful town we passed through today was Camden. With its compact center and narrow streets it felt quite European. We had a picnic lunch on the lovely "Green". As we rode through and out of town we couldn't help noticing that the curbs lining the blacktop sidewalks and streets were actually made of granite. We have enjoyed seeing granite everywhere in New Hampshire and Maine. People use granite posts as decoration in their yards and gardens. Today we passed a business which carves granite memorial stones and they even had one that was shaped like a shiney black motorcycle.
We were able to see the beach in Lincolnville and celebrate the fact we have ridden "from sea to shining sea". Our last ten miles today were in light rain, but we still arrived in Searsport in good spirits. We were met by Pastor Stephen McCloud of the United Methodist Church. He and his fiance are both pastors and seminary students. But he took time out of his busy schedule to make sure we had everything we need. We were offered a shower in his home, and given a warm dry place to sleep upstairs in the sanctuary because it is the one part of the church that has carpeting. The only drawback is that the beautiful stained glass window facing the street is lit up at night from the inside. But, we are prepared to cope with anything. I try to pack items which will be used in more than one way and I could never take a trip without my bandanna. This keeps the sun off of my neck, can be soaked in water to keep me cool, can be used as a washcloth or a towel and will be used tonight to keep the light out of my eyes in the sanctuary of the United Methodist Church.
We are ready for our ride into Bar Harbor tomorrow.
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Buckfield, ME to Damariscotta, ME 62 Miles July 29
Carol and I left Buckfield feeling strong and positive after being over the ¨big" climbs which show on our map elevation profile. Our first stop was in Turner Center at Nezinscot Farm. This is a working organic farm where they have a herd of about 300 dairy cows and make their own cheese. I had to sample and buy the GreGarian, amazingly delicious. They also had low bush organic Maine blueberries, the sweetest I have ever had. Carol and I also drooled over their beautiful hand spun, loom woven woolen goods. We tore ourselves away because we were expected to arrive in Damariscotta to stay with Marjorie Swett and I had given her an estimated arrival time of 3:00 PM, thinking we would arrive by 2:00 PM.
At 11:00 AM we still have 35 miles to ride and the climbing began in earnest. We planned to take a break in Litchfield five miles down the road, but we came to one steep hill after the next and in Litchfield I needed a bathroom urgently. Unfortunately the small store answered my request with ¨itś broken¨. I went across the street to be told, amidst three hysterical poodles, ¨Itś flooded¨. Finally at the hardware store, they told me they did have a Ladies room, but no one ever used it, but I was welcome to. It did work.
Back on the road we had a flatter section of road before the climbs came back with a vengeance. I was so tired, I would see a hill up ahead and just begin laughing hysterically, all the way in to Damariscotta where we arrived at 3:35 PM. Marjorie Swett met us at the Baptist Church, where we locked our bicycles inside and Marjorie drove us to her home at Round Pond. Round Pond is a salt water harbor 11 miles off of our route which is used by commercial lobster fishermen as well as recreational boaters.
Marjorie welcomed us to her beautiful home that her husband designed and built for their retirement. Carol and I enjoyed the huge windows overlooking the harbor with its resident Loon, Great Blue Herons, and undeveloped tree covered islands. After a delicious dinner, Carol and I talked and felt that after such a tough ride and looking at two more tough riding days, we would like a day off. Marjorie generously welcomed us for a second day.
We woke up to see the sun rise over the harbor and hear the loons calling. We had a lovely picnic after touring the Pemaquid Lighthouse. This is such an icon of Maine, that it was chosen as the symbol to grace the back of the Maine quarter coin. This is our first rest day since Niagara Falls and we are thoroughly pleased with our decision.
After resting and being hypnotised by the beautiful shore view, Marjorie prepared another lovely dinner for us, before driving us back to the church in Damariscotta to spend the night. We did not want to impose on Marjorie to drive us back to town before dawn to start our ride to Searsport.
The church was quiet, except for the chiming of a clock every hour and half hour. At 9:00 PM after nine chimes, I decided to see what I could do about the clock. I was able to stop the pendulum, and sleep uninterrupted. However, in the morning the fear and guilt began. I was sure someone would see the clock stopped at 9:00 PM and know those bicyclists had done damage to the clock. But after a little bit of examining, I was able to reset the clock correctly and continue on with a clear conscience.
At 11:00 AM we still have 35 miles to ride and the climbing began in earnest. We planned to take a break in Litchfield five miles down the road, but we came to one steep hill after the next and in Litchfield I needed a bathroom urgently. Unfortunately the small store answered my request with ¨itś broken¨. I went across the street to be told, amidst three hysterical poodles, ¨Itś flooded¨. Finally at the hardware store, they told me they did have a Ladies room, but no one ever used it, but I was welcome to. It did work.
Back on the road we had a flatter section of road before the climbs came back with a vengeance. I was so tired, I would see a hill up ahead and just begin laughing hysterically, all the way in to Damariscotta where we arrived at 3:35 PM. Marjorie Swett met us at the Baptist Church, where we locked our bicycles inside and Marjorie drove us to her home at Round Pond. Round Pond is a salt water harbor 11 miles off of our route which is used by commercial lobster fishermen as well as recreational boaters.
Marjorie welcomed us to her beautiful home that her husband designed and built for their retirement. Carol and I enjoyed the huge windows overlooking the harbor with its resident Loon, Great Blue Herons, and undeveloped tree covered islands. After a delicious dinner, Carol and I talked and felt that after such a tough ride and looking at two more tough riding days, we would like a day off. Marjorie generously welcomed us for a second day.
We woke up to see the sun rise over the harbor and hear the loons calling. We had a lovely picnic after touring the Pemaquid Lighthouse. This is such an icon of Maine, that it was chosen as the symbol to grace the back of the Maine quarter coin. This is our first rest day since Niagara Falls and we are thoroughly pleased with our decision.
After resting and being hypnotised by the beautiful shore view, Marjorie prepared another lovely dinner for us, before driving us back to the church in Damariscotta to spend the night. We did not want to impose on Marjorie to drive us back to town before dawn to start our ride to Searsport.
The church was quiet, except for the chiming of a clock every hour and half hour. At 9:00 PM after nine chimes, I decided to see what I could do about the clock. I was able to stop the pendulum, and sleep uninterrupted. However, in the morning the fear and guilt began. I was sure someone would see the clock stopped at 9:00 PM and know those bicyclists had done damage to the clock. But after a little bit of examining, I was able to reset the clock correctly and continue on with a clear conscience.
Monday, July 28, 2008
Center Conway, NH to Buckfield, ME 46 Miles
Carol and I enjoyed Sue's company early this morning as we ate breakfast and organized all our possessions in plastic bags. This is how we deal with life on the road. Plastic bags keep us organized as well as protecting our STUFF from the elements.
We celebrated again as we crossed the border into Freyburg, Maine. Even though our route today did not involve mountain climbs, we still had ominous hills. One hill forced us to get off and walk. I wanted so badly to keep pedaling, but when I looked up and saw how far it was to the top, I just put my foot down and said, "It's not worth it, I'll walk." Even the trucks were straining getting up Waterford Hill Rd. We knew there was an even bigger climb ahead so when we reached the town of South Paris at the foot of the climb, Carol and I debated whether or not to continue on, or quit for the day and save the climb for when we would be fresh and cool tomorrow morning. Also, we had no idea where we would stay in the tiny town of Buckfield as people we spoke to were not encouraging about us finding any accommodations.
In the meantime I had made calls from the contacts Sue Davidson had given me. Reverend Stephen McCloud offered us a place in his church in Searsport. When I asked if he had any contacts in Buckfield he said he would get back to me. While Carol and I were discussing "The Climb", I heard back from Reverend Eva K. Thompson of the Buckfield Community Church. She enthusiastically offered the church to us for the night and we decided to push on up Streaked Mountain Road.
We did approximately six miles of climbing and never had to walk, though we did have to make a good effort. We arrived in town just before 1:30 PM feeling thrilled to have the climb behind us and a place to stay for the night. Reverend Eva drove the half hour from her home to open up the church and give us fresh towels and soap so we could enjoy a hot shower in the church. We were ecstatic. Eva told us to make ourselves at home and enjoy Buckfield. We are. There is a little grocery store across the street, a library with a fast Internet connection and a lovely river which flows through the center of town.
Reverend Eva even went back home and set up a contact for us for tomorrow night in Damariscotta.
Life is good in Maine.
We celebrated again as we crossed the border into Freyburg, Maine. Even though our route today did not involve mountain climbs, we still had ominous hills. One hill forced us to get off and walk. I wanted so badly to keep pedaling, but when I looked up and saw how far it was to the top, I just put my foot down and said, "It's not worth it, I'll walk." Even the trucks were straining getting up Waterford Hill Rd. We knew there was an even bigger climb ahead so when we reached the town of South Paris at the foot of the climb, Carol and I debated whether or not to continue on, or quit for the day and save the climb for when we would be fresh and cool tomorrow morning. Also, we had no idea where we would stay in the tiny town of Buckfield as people we spoke to were not encouraging about us finding any accommodations.
In the meantime I had made calls from the contacts Sue Davidson had given me. Reverend Stephen McCloud offered us a place in his church in Searsport. When I asked if he had any contacts in Buckfield he said he would get back to me. While Carol and I were discussing "The Climb", I heard back from Reverend Eva K. Thompson of the Buckfield Community Church. She enthusiastically offered the church to us for the night and we decided to push on up Streaked Mountain Road.
We did approximately six miles of climbing and never had to walk, though we did have to make a good effort. We arrived in town just before 1:30 PM feeling thrilled to have the climb behind us and a place to stay for the night. Reverend Eva drove the half hour from her home to open up the church and give us fresh towels and soap so we could enjoy a hot shower in the church. We were ecstatic. Eva told us to make ourselves at home and enjoy Buckfield. We are. There is a little grocery store across the street, a library with a fast Internet connection and a lovely river which flows through the center of town.
Reverend Eva even went back home and set up a contact for us for tomorrow night in Damariscotta.
Life is good in Maine.
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